Alone in Amsterdam

I'm a 50+ married woman, so what am I doing alone, walking the streets of Amsterdam - the city of acceptance, legal marijuana, and the famous Red Light District? Well, to be completely candid, I'm having a ball!

This is my first time in continental Europe and I am apprehensive about the language, the customs, and travelling alone. I know no one. I have no guide, nor any knowledge of Dutch. I am directionally challenged. I am jetlagged. I am standing in the front of the monstrous Centraal Station staring at two armies of trams going I know not where, but I need to get on a #4 to reach my hotel. I choose the closest buses and like an answered prayer, #4 is waiting.

It's 9am and the city is quietly busy. My first impression is that it reminds me a bit of London, England, and that the 100 km of watery canalways aren't that noticeable from the tram. The friendly driver lets me know it's my stop and I step off into a park filled with beautiful blooming pink and orange rhododendrons beside a lovely fountain. My hotel has a tiny entranceway sandwiched between two restaurants with outdoor seating. Dozens of chairs are piled high along the sidewalk. Inside I pick up my key and head for my room.

Five hours later I finally climb out of my jetlag induced slumber and force myself to start exploring. Outside I wonder if I'm in a different location - there are dozens of people seated in the now unpiled chairs, all facing the street, and watching the world go by. A violinist is serenading the crowd, and waiters are generously serving beer. It's 2:30 pm on a Friday! This was my introduction to Amsterdam. During the rest of my visit I was charmed by the friendly people who were willing to help me with anything I asked - and I asked often. While it seemed everyone spoke English - there were very few, if any, English signs on streets, canals, or businesses. Maps were a puzzle that I never quite figured out. Often many of the little alleyways were not listed, and it was hard to find street or canal names to match the ones on the map. But in the end it didn't matter because every time that I got lost I found something fascinating, and I eventually got lost so often that I came across everything that I wanted to see.

The canals are simply beautiful, whether they are lined with historic architecture or some of the 2,500 flower laden houseboats. (Houseboats for rent to tourists are known as 'botels') There are over 1200 arched bridges over the canals in Amsterdam and at least 500 date from the 18th century. The water is fresh and 2-3 meters deep, but not suitable for swimming! The best way to view the city is from a canal boat tour, where you learn that Amsterdam is on space reclaimed from the sea, and buildings are secured on stilts or pylons that must travel through 10 - 30 meters of peat to the sand base. Basically the city is floating.

The second best way to see the city is on foot. The old part of the city, most of the canals, the museums and sights are clustered in one area that is totally flat and very walkable. Although visitors are continually warned by signs to beware of pickpockets, I was never bothered, nor felt nervous whenever I was out walking.

Of course there are bicycles everywhere. They are easy to rent, but dangerous to leave anywhere as so many are stolen unless they are secured to an immovable object with a foolproof lock. Seasoned cyclists have the oldest, rustiest, dented bicycles in the city - less tempting to thieves! I will confess I hiked through part of the red light district. Quickly, and in the morning. I encountered only one red fringed window that contained a beautiful, partly clad woman. I spent more time viewing the masterpieces in the museums of the Dutch painters - especially Rembrandt's "The Nightwatch" and Van Gogh's "The Potato Eaters".

I even encountered a few contemporary Dutch painters in the Amsterdam Botanical Garden, De Hortus Botanicus. Established in1682 the garden holds 250,000 flowers and 115,000 plants and trees. Many have been brought from the former Dutch colonies of Indonesia, Surinam, and the Antilles. It is both breath taking, and peaceful - a curious, but wonderful, combination.

On one of my last days, when I was once again lost, I found the Singel Canal where barges line the canal and street - filled with cut flowers, plants, bulbs, and all things horticultural. You could even purchase ten different kinds of Cannabis seeds, and wooden tulips! The dazzling colors and gorgeous displays of flowers begged to be taken home, and it broke my heart to leave them there.

When it was time to return home I did not think of Amsterdam as a wanton, liberal city, but as a happy, friendly, fascinating place that I want to visit again, and preferably not alone.

IF YOU GO

• Early May is the best time to visit - not too many tourists, the weather is great, and the tulips are at their height.
• Plan to stay in the old part of the city, it's a bit more expensive but closer to everything.
• Unless you're driving your own automobile you will arrive in Amsterdam via the Centraal Station. Directly across from the entrance is a VVV Office (Tourist Bureau). Make it your first stop, ask questions, pick up a free map.

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