Lobo de Mar

How many sea lions live on the Islands of the Galapagos?
The answer - no one knows because it would be an impossible undertaking to count all of them. An estimate several years ago was between twenty and thirty thousand. As prolific as they seem to be the current number is anyone's guess.

Of all the thousands of different animals living in the Galapagos, by far, the most interesting to me are the sea lions.

They live in colonies in peace and harmony with all the other animals. They live on every beach, whether it be rocky or sandy, in remote areas as well as areas populated by humans. They have no fear of people and play with swimmers. Anywhere there is water sea lions can be found.

Each male has at least ten or twelve females in his harem and he protects them from the other males who may try to seal them away. Their only disagreements are with other members of the species. Sharks are their only predators so they are able to live a long and happy life basking in the sun or swimming in the ocean. Because of the size of the adult sea lions sharks mainly prey on the very young. Occasionally they attack the adults leaving visible open wounds and scars on their otherwise beautiful bodies.

The sea lions sleep on the beaches, rocks, backs of boats anchored in the harbors and basically anywhere they choose. They have no fear of people and seem to pose for pictures until they become bored with the whole process. When they have had enough they simply waddle off into the water. On land their movements are so laborious one thinks they will never reach the water. Once in the water they are graceful, acrobatic speedy swimmers. Their sleek bodies always look wet like fine satin. Since one is forbidden to touch the animals I reluctantly resisted the urge and trusted my eyesight. On the beaches they sleep curled up with each other and appear to really like each other.

The mother sea lion takes very good care of her baby but at the same time gives new meaning to child abuse. On the one hand she leaves the baby unattended on the beach to go fishing and may be gone for hours. One wonders if this is abuse or love. There are no baby-sitters in a sea lion colony. Since the baby's survival depends on the milk provided by the mother, she must fish a lot. The baby left to its own devices wanders around barking its objections and waits impatiently for mommy's return with food. It goes without saying that when mother and baby are reunited nursing and napping takes place. After sufficient time has passed the whole process begins again. What a life! I was privileged to see a newborn with its umbilical cord still attached. The babies are extremely cute with their big black sad eyes. When left alone their cries for mommy, are heart rending. One wants to pick them up and cuddle them and reassure them that mommy will be back soon.

On the other hand while the baby is still a newborn it is necessary for the mother to encourage it into the water. The baby does not want to leave the nice warm comfortable beach to enter the unpleasantly cold water. The mother, having no hands or arms, must persuade the baby by any means possible. I watched two mothers perform this operation that seemed like an almost impossible task. This particular location was not a nice flat sandy beach but very rough rocky terrain. It was difficult enough for my two feet to navigate the area but the mother sea lion had to navigate herself and the reluctant baby. She started by pushing the baby with her nose. When that was no longer effective she grabbed the baby by the nape of the neck (just like a cat or dog moves its babies from one location to the other) and literally slung the baby over the rock. Sometimes the baby would get stuck between the rocks at which time the mother had to pull it out. Not being the most graceful animal on land this has to be a labor of love.

It is unbelievable the lengths to which a mother will go to teach the child who is boss. Fortunately the babies are resilient and are no worse for the wear.

Upon reaching the water both mother and baby go for a swim with unparalleled grace.
It is at this time the baby is most vulnerable to shark attack. The operation takes a lot of energy so after the first swim both mother and baby return to the beach or rocky home for nursing, napping and further bonding. Since they are both exhausted they must rest before the next excursion. One has to wonder - does the mother resent having to go to such lengths to provide nourishment and training or is this just her lot in life? Does she simply have nothing else to do? I feel extremely honored to have witnessed this event.

One morning I watched two young sea lions playing what appeared to be a game of hide-and-seek. They would swim together for a bit then one would disappear. The other would seek and suddenly from out of nowhere they both appeared only to start the game all over again. They play in the waves crashing on the rocks making one wonder how they keep from being seriously injured or killed.

The sea lions are a nuisance in some parts of the world but in the Galapagos they are revered. Businesses incorporate "sea lion" in their names. Since this is a Spanish speaking country the name "Lobo de Mar" is a very common name. Literally translated it means "Sea Wolf", so named because the face of the sea lion was thought to resemble the face of a wolf.

My trip to the Galapagos was the experience of a lifetime. My first trip did not last long enough so I went back five months later. Both trips were equally rewarding, each in its own way.

When my husband of thirty-seven years died I was left alone wondering just what to do with the rest of my life. I had two choices - I could feel sorry for myself, become a bitter old lady rocking my life away knitting on the back porch with a cat for company; or I could be adventurous and do things I had never done before. I chose the latter. The first scenario did not sound very interesting nor did it fit my personality.

I encourage anyone, male or female, of an advanced age to just do it. I had some reservations about traveling alone to unknown places where I did not speak the language but putting those concerns aside my first trip, alone, was to the Amazon. I went, I enjoyed, I came home in one piece ready to go to the next adventure.

The first time may be a bit daunting but never let anyone tell you that you are too old. I was 40 years old 30 years ago and I intend to be around for a long time to come. I have a vivid imagination and could think of a million reasons why I should stay home. I had only one reason for going. I wanted to go and that for me was reason enough.

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