Pembrokeshire Walking

Tucked away in the south-west corner of Wales, it is not difficult to see why Pembrokeshire has long been a favoured area for the discerning holidaymaker. A long and well-varied coastline combines spectacular rocky headlands and coves with wide beaches of superb sand, little ports, towns and villages. All this is available without competing with the crowds which make the not dissimilar Devon and Cornish coasts so congested for much of the holiday season.

Not least of the attractions of Pembrokeshire is the designated coastal path, established in 1970, winding its sinuous way for one hundred and eighty miles from Amroth to Poppit Sands, near St. Dogmaels, in and out of countless bays and coves and up and down over the intervening headlands. Being a coastal path means that there are no mountains to climb, but… the total rise and fall totals 35,000ft. (Mt. Everest fails to reach 30,000ft.) so walking the whole path is not a soft option; it requires fitness and determination, about three weeks of sustained effort.

The rewards for this effort are great; the scenery, embracing cliffs, beaches, offshore islands, abundant birdlife and possibly basking seals, is superb. Pembrokeshire was favoured with human occupation at an early stage of the history of Britain and the comparative lack of successive overlays of development in more recent centuries has allowed much evidence of the Stone, Bronze and Iron ages to survive. There are standing stones, cromlechs, burial chambers and promontory hill forts in profusion, many of them close to the coast path.
The county was also a cradle of early Celtic Christianity, with St. Non and St David, mother and son, prominent, leaving ruins of chapels and wells. Later, invasion by the Normans left castles, such as the splendid examples at Pembroke and Manorbier, and the sites ruined castles. In even more recent times great extraction industries have made their own contribution to the coastal scenery.
Undoubtedly, the northern length of the path, from the St David’s area to Fishguard is the more spectacular, the coastline being almost entirely rugged for many miles, including Strumble Head and the granite upthrusts of Carnllidi, Penberry and Garn Fawr. The southern length also has dramatic scenery, alternating with great sandy beaches such as Newgale, the delectable Marloes and Saundersfoot and with popular resorts, including Tenby, Solva and Broad Haven.

Most walkers in Pembrokeshire will probably settle for something less than the full length of the coast path. There are many opportunities to use sections of the path as part of less ambitious but still delightful circular routes, possibly facilitated by the numerous coastal bus services.
One of the best is to start at the lovely little city of St. David’s, with its cathedral and ruined Bishop’s Palace. Walk to the lifeboat station at St. Justinian’s, then turn left to follow the coast path, visiting Porthlysgi Bay, Porthclais, where St. David was baptised, and St. Non’s Bay, with ruined chapel, before turning left to return to St. David’s, about seven miles in total.
Another suggestion is to head north from the remote Abereiddy Bay on the north coast, visiting the nearby spectacular deep sea pool, before going over the headland to Porthgain, formerly a busy port, with industrial remains including massive brick silos still evident. The Sloop Inn has long provided refreshments at Porthgain. Return to Abereiddy along inland lanes and tracks, passing close to Barry Island Farm.
At the southern end of the huge St. Bride’s Bay, Martin’s Haven is the embarkation place for boat trips to Skomer Island, with its abundant bird life. Use the same car park for a delightful short ramble around the almost detached headland which includes Wooltack Point. The sea views in three directions include Skomer and Midland Islands.

Well to the south of the area is a lovely gentle walk for all the family at Bosherston lily ponds. A circuit which can be varied to suit different requirements commences at the National Trust car park adjacent to Bosherston village, about five miles south of Pembroke. The two to three miles around the ‘ponds’ (actually sizable lakes) can be extended to include Broad Haven beach, St. Govan’s Head and the nearby chapel clinging to the side of a sea cliff. From the St David’s area, the undemanding ascent of Carnlidi, inland of St. David’s Head, provides a fine viewpoint in an area where the ancient remains are particularly prolific, truly a cradle of early British civilization.

Whilst the coast path and its variations are rightly paramount in any consideration of Pembrokeshire walking, there are other possibilities particularly for those who like to be well away from the crowds. Inland Pembrokeshire, apart from the town of Haverford West is, in holiday terms, a very quiet area. The Prescelly Hills, which provided the great sarsen stones for Stonehenge, rise to a maximum of 1760ft. a little way north of Rosebush without any particularly steep or rocky slopes. Quiet lanes and paths cross these hills, some making for the attractive valley of the R. Gwaun to the north, offering peace and solitude to the enterprising walker.

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