Morecambe Bay and the Cartmel Peninsula

So often there seems to be something magic about a bay; something that straight coastlines, even the most attractive, seem to lack. Who would sing romantically about the sun going down on Chesil Bank or, for that matter, Southport sands? But it does go down on Galway Bay and, quite spectacularly, on Morecambe Bay, that great expanse of sand over which the tides move several miles each way, at speeds faster than a person can run, as many have found to their cost over the centuries.

Apart from the glorious sunsets and the view of the Lake District mountains across the bay, fame for the Bay has often been for unfortunate reasons. The sad episode of the Chinese cockle-pickers (twenty-three drowned) just two years ago was only the most recent event in the long history of hundreds of deaths over several centuries. The ancient right of way across the sands from Hest Bank, to the north of Morecambe, to Kents Bank, west of Grange, has attracted travellers wanting the direct route to what is now the western part of Cumbria. Not all have appreciated the length of time required to cross eight miles of sand, some of it quicksand, with river channels to wade, making due allowance for the timing of the tides. This direct route tempted the early railway builders as an easier alternative to the arduous inland climb over Shap, a huge viaduct being proposed, with the line then skirting the Cumbrian coast on its way to Carlisle. A more modern consideration is the construction of a barrage across the Bay, harnessing the enormous power of the tides to produce electrical energy. Mercifully, present day use of this route seems to be restricted to organised parties, led by the Queen's Guide, holder of a historic Royal Warrant, who has an unparalleled knowledge of the sands.

Of the huge area surrounding the bay, one of the most interesting parts is the Cartmel peninsula. Cartmel itself used to be regarded as one of 'the Lakes District's best kept secrets'. Not any more! This fine village now attracts its share of visitors, admiring the great Priory church, refreshing at one of the several old inns or even the prestigious L'Enclume restaurant, or just strolling among the old buildings. The Priory was established in 1188, surviving 14th century Scottish raids, but not Henry VIII's more serious attention in 1538. Fortunately the villagers were allowed to keep a large part of the Priory as their parish church, still a fine structure with plenty of interest inside. In particular, don't miss the two fine sculptures by the late Josefina de Vasconcellos, who died last year at the age of one hundred after spending much of her life in the Lake District, and the 15th century carved choir stalls. Outside, the offset top of the tower is a 15th century addition. Look for the musket ball holes in a door believed to have been used as target practice by Cromwell's soldiers in 1643.

The compact Market Place is dominated by the Priory gateway, now considerably detached from its parent building and owned by the National Trust. The market cross, fish slabs and a shop specializing in sticky toffee pudding, regarded as a local delicacy, complete an attractive grouping. Down a little lane on one side is the racecourse (and best car parking place), possibly the smallest in England, at which popular meetings are held several times each year.
Enthusiasts for the quirky will seek out the very distinctive signposts, some of which include routes to Lancaster and Ulverston 'over sands'. Follow these at your peril! Equally quirky, the 'Raleigh bicycles' advertisement has graced the wall of a building close to the Cavendish Arms for many years.

From Cartmel it isn't far to Flookborough, a dour village, the home of generations of fishermen ('flooks' are small flatfish, primarily dabs and flounders), shrimpers and cockle pickers, relying on the bountiful waters of the Bay for a livelihood. Alas, catches have declined over the years and prosperity seems to have passed by Flookborough. If the village were located in, say, Sussex, Suffolk or Devon, it would be pretty and manicured with colour-washed cottages and would have troughs and baskets of flowers outside every cottage. But it isn't and it hasn't.

Accessed by narrow and devious lanes to the south of Cartmel and Flookborough is the highest sea cliff between North Wales and St, Bees Head. This eminence amounts to only 160 feet, but in the context of Morecambe Bay that is huge. Humphrey Head is more than just a cliff. It's a great whaleback of limestone where it is claimed that England's last wolf was killed. With the added interest of the holy well of St. Agnes and a bridleway along the top, the Head makes a fine visit. There is some rough parking space where the access lane ends at the 'beach' below the cliff. On the way to and from the Head look out for Wraysholme Tower, where a farm has been superimposed on a defensive 'pele tower', a compact fortress built in the 14th century to repel Scottish raiders.

Last but by no means least on the peninsula is Grange over Sands, soon to be a home of the Holiday Property Bond. Until the railway arrived in 1857, Grange consisted of a few bay-side cottages. Within a few years, it grew into a Victorian sea-side holiday resort, staid and dignified, fortunately making no effort whatsoever to compete with brash Blackpool and Morecambe just a short distance down the coast. It hasn't changed much. It is still dignified, now a popular venue for retirement, with promenade, well-kept gardens, two golf courses, pleasant individual shops and good cafes and restaurants, all backed by the attractive and accessible height of Hampsfield Fell. The seemingly boundless sand may be struggling to resist the invasion of an alien grass, but the views across the bay and the general ambience remain as attractive as ever.

There is a station on the Lancaster to Barrow railway line, with through trains to Manchester and its airport connecting with the London and Glasgow main line services at Lancaster. To visit Arnside or Silverdale, across the estuary of the River Kent, takes about five or ten minutes respectively on the train or about forty minutes to drive!