Germany's White Asparagus: The Prince of Vegetables

By: Roberta Beach Jacobson

To the uninitiated, the excitement about something comprised of 94 percent water might seem baffling. The undeniable mystique of Germany's white asparagus (spargel) is the sheer difficulty in growing such a demanding crop. On farms in several regions of the country, asparagus cultivation is a time consuming, but generally profitable, business. The light sandy soil is ideal for growing this finicky crop.

Each plant lasts eight to ten years and grows completely underground. The ridged fields appear corrugated. This curious ridging practice dates back some 200 years, the aim being to grow perfectly white stalks by preventing any contact with sunlight.

Harvesting averages 45 days and is done completely by hand and is a skilled job. Hawk eyed farmers patrol their ridges and as soon as the tip of the shoot breaks the soil's surface, farmhands dig down to uncover the length of the seven-to eight-inch shoot. One deft cut with a sharp knife and the asparagus goes into the harvester's basket.

Quality considerations include tenderness, shape and colour. Stems with a purplish hue taste exactly the same as the white ones, but farmers know only the top three grades will fetch the best prices. A hard spring frost will spell disaster for the plants known as Asparagus officinalis L. They need a high soil temperature (61 degrees F.). The German variety is the thick white asparagus, rather than its southern green cousin.

The white delicacy weighs in at just 100 calories per pound and its almost total lack of starch makes it ideal for diabetics. It's high in vitamins A, C, B1 and B2 and minerals such as calcium, phosphorus and potassium.

If you're not counting calories, try spargel in sauce Hollandaise or wrapped in slices of succulent smoked Black Forest ham. These are just two standards from spargel menus of Germany's hotels and restaurants during the season.

How to buy

The key to buying the delicacy is that it should be consumed within two days of harvesting. The best plan is to eat in the afternoon what was harvested that morning.

Is it fresh?

Squeeze the cut end between thumb and forefinger and juice should come out with only slight pressure. If the juice has a distinctly acidic smell, the stem is either old or has been soaked - neither of which is good news. You'll find at least five different grades of white asparagus sold at Germany's outdoor markets, grocery stores, roadside stands and farmers' houses.

How to prepare

The key is to use mild sauces and accompaniments so the delicate flavour is not drowned. Colourful dips can be a fun addition to the table during the brief spargel season.

Asparagus lovers argue over cooking times. Some claim ten minutes, others 30. As a rule of thumb, the stems are ready when a fork can easily pierce the thickest part. Don't commit the ultimate asparagus sin of hurling the stalks into boiling water. Bind the (rinsed and peeled) bundle and cook with tips up. Select a deep (non aluminum) saucepan half filled with salted boiling water to cook the vegetable for a few minutes, then top up the pot with boiling water for the rest of the cooking time. This awkward procedure allows the thicker, harder lower sections to cook through while the tender heads won't get boiled to a pulp.

Recipes:

Strawberry and Asparagus Salad
Classic Asparagus Salad

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