A well-kept secret in Vienna

story by Silvia Keller

In a recent trip to Vienna, my husband and I discovered Plachutta, more than a restaurant, an institution; well-known by locals but a well-kept secret from tourists. You can savor Wiener-Schnitzel and apple strudel anywhere in Austria, but Tafelspitz (boiled silverside of beef) is unique to this area and the main reason locals fill this restaurant on a daily basis.

Boiled beef does not sound exciting when compared to other Austrian delicacies but to truly understand why it is so special, you must experience it yourself, the "Plachutta way".

Tafelspitz is a specific cut of beef boiled in broth for hours. The menu offers more than ten cuts of beef to choose from; along the choices, you find explanations as to what section of the cow the cut comes from, whether it is tough or tender, juicy or dry, fat or lean. It is then served at the table in a rich broth with different aromatic and colorful vegetables, in a beautiful copper pan. We first enjoyed the soup with fritatten (thin pancake slices), noodles and Schoeberl (a savory spongy noodle with ham).

Then came the moment we had been looking forward to, tasting the meat. We chose a cut of the upper rump, cooked to perfection, it was tender, juicy and lean. We accompanied our meal with a fabulous local red wine, rich and vibrant on the palate, yet not overly opulent or over-the-top.

Though there was no need to add anything to the meat, our waiter brought us two sauces- a chive bread sauce and apple-horseradish; he explained that you either add these to the beef, or the side-dishes served with the meal: the two most recommended are deep-fried julienne potatoes and creamed spinach.

These sauces were unlike anything I have tasted before.
The chive-bread sauce is prepared with hard-boiled egg yolks, strained bread, fresh chives, watered vinegar and lemon juice; the freshness and boldness of the chives soften the acidity of the vinegar and lemon. These flavors play with each other as a well orchestrated symphony.
The horseradish sauce was unique in that broth from the meat is used to flavor the combination of ingredients.
The Apple sauce, tart yet not overpowering, is used to take away the tingly-spicy feeling.

Potatoes were golden brown yet not greasy and went great with the two sauces. The spinach is finely chopped, prepared in a roux of butter and flour, flavored with the broth from the beef; garlic and browned butter is then added giving it a distinct taste.

After such an incredible feast, there was no room for desert. I looked around and realized the restaurant was filled to capacity and there were people waiting to get in. Though this was the case, service was superb, friendly and efficient.

Plachutta has three locations but the most popular is the one in the Woltzeile, not too far from the famous Stadtpark, where you find a statue of Johann Strauss; great for a much needed after-dinner walk and perhaps a concert.

Before departing Vienna, we walked by Plachutta and to our surprise, the waiters remembered us. They greeted us with a warm smile and handshake. We could not leave without taking a part of Vienna with us, so we purchased the cook book written by award winning chef Ewald Plachutta. The recipes contained in this book are now part of the culinary heritage of Austria.

Anytime you travel, find out where the locals eat. You will always find a great place, great food and great prices. When we received the bill, we were surprised as to how reasonable it was. On our next trip to Vienna, Plachutta is definitely at the top of our list!!!!

This particular location 1010 Wien, Wollzeile 38, is open every day from 11:30 a.m. to 12:00 p.m.
For reservations call: 01/512-15-77 or check the website www.plachutta.at

  

Back