48 Hours in Paris on a budget

By: Leah Larkin

Two hundred euros a day for two in Paris, one of the world’s most expensive cities. It would be a challenge – but that was my goal for our visit to the city of lights in the pre-Christmas season.
A challenge it was, and we did go over the limit, but still managed to keep expenses down. We like to eat well, so I did some research to find places where we could have tasty cuisine that wouldn’t cost a fortune.
To cut lodging costs, we opted for a chambre d’hôte. Several agencies list these B&B accommodations for Paris. Even though Saint-Germain-des-Prés is pricier than other areas, it’s our favorite. I found a chambre d’hôte there on Rue Madame for €86 per night, breakfast included. We had our own bath but shared toilet facilities. Upon arrival, Geneviève, our charming hostess who restores paintings, invited us for an aperitif in her spacious living room with high ceilings and art covering the walls. She gave us the weather report at breakfast and told us how to dress for the day.

DAY ONE

12:50 p.m. Arrival in Paris by TGV from our home in Provence. Purchased a book of 10 métro tickets, €10.90. Checked into the chambre d’hôte, then set off to meet a walking tour, “Architecture et Pouvoir,” with the agency 'Paris Go'. €36 for two, including a coffee and tarte snack at a café.
The tour began at Notre Dame with a lecture on the history of L’Ile de la cité dating back to the Romans, then proceeded to numerous monumental buildings in the area. At each stop of this outdoor tour the guide spoke in French about the history of these edifices. He gave our group of eight a quiz at the end to see how much of his lecture we remembered. All passed, except my husband who hadn’t understood a word.
5 p.m. Time for a leisurely walk back to our neighborhood along the Seine, past the bouquinistes, then through the maze of streets in Saint Germain where it’s fun to gaze in shop windows, be they full of to-die-for pastries, trendy clothes or far out works of art.
Made a quick visit to the Église Saint Sulpice, somewhat spooky after dark, which figured in the “Da Vinci Code.” A plaque near the stone obelisk mentioned in the book reads: “Contrary to fanciful allegations in a recent best-selling novel, this is not a vestige of a pagan temple…”
7:30 p.m. Dinner at Polidor, a fun eatery near the Odéon which dates back to 1845. Dining is communal in this bustling place with checkered tablecloths, an old tile floor and a chalkboard menu. We sat with a group of Italians and ordered the special of the day, agneau and flageolets (lamb and beans). That plus two salads, one huge slice of the best tarte tatin (apple pie) we’ve ever had, wine and coffee, came to €54.

DAY TWO

9:30 a.m. Invested in a copy of Pariscope (€.40) with its invaluable listings of museums and entertainment. Shopped for art on the Rue de Seine in Saint Germain.
11 a.m. To save those precious metro tickets, hiked across the Seine, past the Louvre to Avenue de l’Opera to admire the glorious Palais Garnier, then over to Boulevard Haussmann and Galleries Lafayette whose Christmas windows were outstanding.
Noon. Métro to École de Paris des Métiers de la Table, du Tourisme et de l’Hôtellerie, a school for chefs and restaurant personnel with an inexpensive restaurant run by the students. The young staff are eager, friendly and fun to watch as they struggle to perfectly carve a tiny bird or flame a dessert. We enjoyed an outstanding four-course meal, €12 each: crêpes aux champignons, pintadeau roti, fromage and dessert. A bottle of wine: €8.
3 p.m. Next stop: Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107 rue de Rivoli, which recently reopened after renovation, €16 for two. Several floors are loaded with priceless furnishings and objets d’art from the Middle Ages to the 20th century.
Paris’s newest museum, the controversial Musée du Quai-Branly, houses African and Asian art. It was near closing time when we arrived, so we couldn’t justify the expense of a ticket. Nonetheless it was worth the trek to behold this strange structure and walk through its unique gardens of tall grasses, reeds and ponds.
7 p.m. To work up an appetite, we walked from our chambre d’hôte to the Champs Elysées. A light drizzle turned into heavy rain during our trek. We were drenched upon arrival at the broad boulevard, all dazzling in Christmas light brilliance, but the frenzy of lights sparkling on the wet pavements added a new dimension to the tableau. Needed a break. Two large but expensive Amstel beers, €14, at an Irish pub that was out of Guinness.
8:30 p.m. Métro to Montmartre to find a cheap place for dinner, Le Rendezvous des Amis on rue Gabrielle, recommended by the guide from the walk the previous day. Wandered the back streets of Montmartre, up and down steps, frequently asking directions. The rain had not let up. We were weary and wet, but alas, there it was – a dark smoky bar crowded with young Parisians all standing and drinking beer. No food in sight. So much for our guide’s recommendations. Fortunately there was a tiny, cozy restaurant next door, la Taverne de Montmartre. Dinner – €28.

DAY THREE

9 a.m. Explored the Left Bank, with a stop en route at a pastry shop whose windows were magnificent, irresistible. One apple strudel as good as anything in Vienna and two coffees, €8.70.
10 a.m. On to the Musée national du Moyen Age, Thermes de Cluny, 6 Place Paul Painlevé, €15.40. The tapestries in this 15th century Gothic hôtel, especially the Lady and the Unicorn series, are outstanding.
Noon. Lunch at Chartier, a large turn-of-century eatery packed with customers. Wonderful art nouveau ambience – glass ceiling, mirrors, marble and wood. We were joined at a table by young lovers who hardly noticed us. Lunch: Two plats du jour (salmon and potatoes), two salads, one dessert, wine and coffee, €40.60.
2 p.m. Gare de Lyon and train back to Provence.
Total expenses: € 428. We did not quite make the goal, but we had some fun and delicious dining experiences, visited two museums, got plenty of exercise, and enjoyed soaking up the splendor of Paris.

IF YOU GO:

We booked our chambre d’hôte with Good Morning Paris, www.goodmorningparis.fr. The web site www.hotesqualiteparis.fr lists other agencies for chambres d’hôtes.

Paris Go (www.parisgo.fr) offers many guided walks of Paris.

Crémerie Restaurant Polidor, 41 rue Monsieur-Le-Prince, Tel. 01 43 26 95 34. Métro : Odéon.

École de Paris des Métiers de la Table du Tourisme et de l’Hôtellerie, 17 rue Jacques Ibert, Tel. 01 44 09 12 00, Métro Louise Michel. Reservations a must. www.epmtth.org

La Taverne de Montmartre, 25 rue Gabrielle, Tel. 01 46 06 88 48. Specializes in fondue, raclette and tartiflette. Métro Abbesses.

Pâtisserie Viennoise, 8 rue de l’École de Médecine, Tel. 01 43 26 60 48, Métro: Odéon

Chartier, 7 rue du Faubourg, Tel. 01 47 70 86 29, Métro: Grands Boulevards

Museums in Paris are expensive. A two-consecutive-day museum pass, €30 can cut the cost, however not all museums are covered by the pass. Many museums are free on certain days or on certain evenings. For more information, see www.parisinfo.com

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