The Holiday Property Bond - Le Manoir du Hilguy
Fish, flowers and fest-noz:
Experience the Celtic-connection in France
The Holiday Property Bond's 18th century chateau, Le Manoir du Hilguy, is the ideal base from which to discover Brittany's diverse countryside, heritage and culture. And now that regular Ryanair flights to Brest Airport have recommenced - with return fares starting at just £5.00 - there's never been a better time.
Surrounded on three sides by sea, La Cornouaille - on the western coast of Brittany - is France's 'Lands End': Celtish in tradition, history and myth (though, thankfully, not in climate), the region survives and thrives principally on tourism and fishing. In fact, the ancient walled port-town of Concarneau combines the two.
Despite dwindling stocks, and restrictive EU quotas, it maintains a sizeable fleet, a thriving fish market, and a fascinating exhibition: the Musée de la pêche (Museum of Fishing) to where innovative local firm, 'A l'assault des Ramparts', offers regular, guided trips - stopping en route to explore the old town and harbour, the bustling quayside criée (fish auction), and a working trawler.
Charter
In addition, the local Chamber of Commerce provides regular accompanied tours to other nearby ports, enabling visitors to watch the ships unloading their day's catch.
Given this proud maritime tradition, it's no surprise that Brittany is renowned for the quality of its seafood - and, in particular, its seafood platter, which is regarded as a classic of Breton cuisine.
The composition of the dish varies according to the season, and the vicissitudes of the fishing. But so seriously is it taken that many restaurateurs have signed up to an official Seafood Platter Quality Charter: the 'l'authentique plateau de fruits de mer frais bretons' (authentic fresh Breton seafood platter).
To be allowed to feature the charter-mark on their windows, participating restaurants must offer a choice of at least six different sorts of shellfish - usually including lobsters, clams, mussels, scallops, shrimps and oysters - served on a bed of seaweed, and accompanied by bread, salted butter, homemade mayonnaise and a wedge of lemon.
Festival
With matters gastronomique firmly in mind, the Manoir's onsite 'Le Bistro du Manoir', which reopens in April, provides a range of mouth-watering French cuisine. And the nearby Ty-Pin restaurant offers a seafood banquet each week.
And of course a trip across the Channel would not be complete without a crêpe and/or a galette - pancakes made of buckwheat (for savoury main courses), and wheat (for deserts). Washed down with a draught of locally produced cider, of course.
Hilguy Site Manager Christine Guichard's Thursday excursion includes stop-offs at a local cider-makers (Ciderie Coic, in Ploneis) for a tasting, as well as the 16th and 18th century manor gardens, at Manoir de Kerazan, en route to the local port and fish auction rooms at Haliotika, Le Guilvinec. Christine also runs a regular Wednesday morning excursion, taking in the historically significant Calvary at Tronoen.
For those readers that may be unfamiliar with the term, Calvaries are intricate granite monuments that were used, in ancient times, by priests for religious instruction. The example at Tronoen is one of Brittany's best known. It is also the oldest, dating back to 1450, and depicting the crucified Christ, flanked by the Virgin and Saint John.
Christine's tour - which concludes at the noted wine cellar of Caves de la Rocade, at Point L'abbé, with a tasting and feast of local charcuterie - takes a surprisingly floral turn during the months of March and April, with a ride on a small land-train around what has become known, unsurprisingly, as Little Holland: a.k.a the spectacular Tulip fields of Plomeur.
Attracted by the region's favourable weather and fertile soil, two Dutch tulip-growing families moved to Plomeur during the 1980s. And their arrival changed the springtime landscape forever.
The 'Festival of the Flowers', which takes place each year during April, celebrates Brittany's many and varied floral accomplishments, showcasing - in addition to those glorious tulips, of course - the hyacinths, narcissus, irises, anemones, dahlias and sword grass - all of which are grown in Plomeur, and the neighbouring villages of Saint-Jean Trolimon and Penmarc'h.
Distilleries
Penmarc'h is actually made up of three parishes: Penmarc'h itself, Kérity - and St-Guénolé, which is home to the most advanced, computerised fish auction in Europe. All of which goes to prove: you can't travel far within Brittany without encountering either a fishy reference, or a Celtic tie-in.
Here, you'll find both: the latter in the form of the fine whiskeys, which are a legacy of the many Irish monks who frequented the region through the ages; and the 'bagadou', the Breton form of the Scottish pipe band: a surprisingly harmonious mix of bagpipes, organ and - often - violin, hurdy-gurdy and harp.
During 2006, Brittany's 8,000+ bagadoù musicians will feature at more than 300 fest-noz (Breton festivals), and upwards of 4,000 concerts at a raft of venues - from the most intimate concert-cafés, to some of Europe's larger parks and stadiums.
Indeed, the Vieilles Charrues, which takes place in July in Carhaix, is one of Europe's largest - not to say, most eclectic - music festivals, having played host to New Order and Iggy & The Stooges, as well as more traditional 'folk' musicians.
