Fishing Camps in Mozambique, Africa
If you dream of going deep sea fishing in an exotic part of the world, you might consider traveling to the eastern coast of Mozambique. There, on the Indian Ocean, in a chartered boat, you can try your luck for big fish. One of several serious fishing camps, located along that coast, may be for you. I'll tell you about a couple of them.
My brother Tom, sister-in-law Elizabeth, my husband John and I were traveling north from Maputo, the capitol city of Mozambique, to eventually end up in Mutare, Zimbabwe.
We planned to drive for three days, staying at a couple of fishing camps on the way. We didn't plan to fish, but to stay overnight in places with a great view of the Indian Ocean. We also wanted to discover what these camps have to offer for fishing enthusiasts.
The month was March. The heavy rains and flooding of the past December and January were finished; the country was drying out and everyone was attempting to return to normal.
The air was warm and humid, with that hazy dampness and sharp salty smell, which is often noticed when oceans are nearby.
Driving along the double lane Route 1, we passed people walking along the roadside. Most of the women, children and some men carried objects or baskets of produce on their heads. One man balanced a small TV; and we watched as a girl had a huge bunch of bananas, that she carried on her head with no trouble at all. Most of the children smiled and waved to us as we passed.
The road began to be noticeably poorer as we drove farther from the city. Potholes of all sizes were everywhere, which we needed to dodge. All of us nervously watched the overfilled small buses and trucks race towards us. Men, women and children crowded into these vehicles, along with large bundles, a few chickens and the occasional goat. The drivers didn't seem to have any idea of staying within speed limits or on their own side of the road. Granted, they also needed to dodge the potholes.
Late that afternoon we approached our first fishing camp, "Guinjata Bay" in Inhambane. Tom had spoken to the camp director by phone to confirm our reservation and get directions. He was told that the main road had recently been washed out and was not accessible. We needed to drive along a longer road that was "passable". This took us across a sandy peninsular, over an extremely rough, rutted sandy road (road is not a good description for this track). We had no idea how long this trail would take to bring us to the camp. It was critical that we move our 4 wheel drive vehicle rather slowly and in second gear. Most important, we didn't want to be driving after dark.
Coconut pines were thick on both sides of the roadway, planted fairly orderly - we thought that there might have been copra plantations at one time along here. Near some of the few huts, along the way, were piles of the harvested coconuts.
Finally, after an hour and a half of this slow pace, our truck pulled up to the entrance to the camp. We were at the beach, on a large sand dune. Tracks led us to the office/restaurant/bar to check in.
We were directed to a high wood and thatch building, up a stairway to the deck of our cottage. The high deck caught the breeze and gave us a beautiful view of the sandy beach and the shimmering silver color of the Indian Ocean. It would be very dark in a few minutes, so we hurried to drop off our gear and walk to the restaurant for dinner.
Our group and one or two other people sat under the thatched roof of the small restaurant and ate a very good seafood and steak dinner by candlelight. The local beer and wine was interesting, the food satisfying, life was good.
By the time we finished eating, it was fully dark. We needed to use our flashlights to find our way the short distance back to our cabin. It was relaxing to sit for a while on our high porch and gaze at the black sky and the millions of stars high above. The quiet was complete. Other campers were probably as tired as were, and already asleep. The fishing boats do go out in very early morning.
This was one serious fishing camp, no frills! The interior of our cabin was rough. We had a large living room with a kitchen at the back end, three small bedrooms and two very primitive bathrooms. Plastic chairs and rough tables in the living room/kitchen were adequate. Basic cookery was provided. In the kitchen were two large chest freezers. Perfect for keeping your catch until it was time to leave for home.
The bedrooms and baths were really fairly simple - each bedroom contained two twin size beds and a bench for luggage. The mattresses were about 2 inches thick over a wicker bed frame. The walls were woven sticks with heavier thatch on the outside walls. Small windows brought in some air and a woven shade kept the mosquitoes out.
The bathrooms had the same type of walls. The door locking mechanism was just a stick hanging from a string on the wall that you inserted and pulled out of a small hole. It worked.
< align="justify"p>Because of the location of the camp on the coast, far from a city, there was no local electricity, so generators were used and power had to be conserved. No electricity after 11 pm and before 7 the next morning. It would be wise to be sleeping during this time.This camp contains a variety of cabins from 2 bedroom/1 bathroom, to 8 bedrooms/5 bathrooms. There is sheltered camping in what they call baracas.
A full range of fly fishing from the shore is available, the bay area in front of the resort is said to be especially good sport. Small and large boats can be rented or chartered for deep sea fishing.
This camp does a brisk business arranging for fishing holidays for groups and families. Apparently the fishing is excellent and there is a very good chance of catching Scope, Barracuda, Kingfish, Queen Fish, Dorado, Bonito, Sailfish, Marlin and more varieties. Deep sea clinics can be arranged for the inexperienced.
Snorkeling is very popular. Whale sharks are seen near the resort all year round. Dolphins are often viewed and humpback whales visit the shores from May through October. Bring your cameras!
It would have been fun to stay longer, but we needed to get on the road to arrive at our next camp before dark.
Driving north again on the potholed Route 1. We came across more and more of the overloaded buses or just old pickup trucks filled with people, animals and goods. Everyone had somewhere to go.
I wanted to stop and take photos occasionally and to admire some of the goods at roadside markets and stands. There were colorful fabrics and rugs hanging on rods, some wood carvings of small animals, clay pots and jugs of all sizes and other tourist baiting items. Local residents did a brisk business selling fruits and vegetables too.
"Aqua Negra Lodge" was much different from Guinjata Bay Resort. This one was more of a holiday and fishing camp. It is a small, comfortable and affordable lodge located at Vilanculos, Mozambique. It has views across the sea to the islands of Margaruque and Benguerra. This area is a springboard to the islands of the Bazaruto archipelago. It is a favorite for families and couples.
The camp is located on the Indian Ocean with a good sandy beach. The chalets were spread out on level land and there were neat paths to the beach and even a small swimming pool.
The restaurant/bar was large and well equipped. And a high deck overlooking the beach was a fun place sit with a glass of wine after dinner. The food was good and, as you can imagine, fresh fish was plentiful.
The A frame chalets were well built and comfortable, sleeping two or four each. The bathrooms were not nearly as primitive as those of our last camp and the beds, though the mattresses were not very thick, did have mosquito netting and a cool ocean breeze wafted in the windows that night.
This time each couple had their own cabin. Tom and Liz woke early to jog around the beach before breakfast, while John and I sat on our porch drinking our morning coffee.
Again, we needed to get back on the road, to reach Mutare before nightfall. We agreed that the road was long and difficult, but the fishing camps were welcome places to eat, sleep and enjoy the ocean breezes.
